Our hall was something that most house-hunters never saw beyond when looking at our home. I must admit it was with some imagination and naive enthusiasm that I glimpsed its future potential.

After renewing every surface in the hall, it was time to take on the stairs.  The stone walls exposed, all trim and doors stripped and painted, new ceiling and underfloor heating and tiling was taken on very early on.  The opening up of the hall and adding French doors to the newly added terrace seemed to make the stairs look even darker and more foreboding.

Deciding on our look

The stairs are solid elm and stained dark brown, like so most things here in old Gascon France. They have very few redeeming features and in my heart, I wanted them gone.

I had dreams of a romantic reclaimed stone staircase with iron railings. However a quick word with a local stonemason and his ball-park figure given and that idea was quickly shelved.  A few glasses of red to drown the sorrows and it was time to move on to Plan B.

Our next idea of replacing them and perhaps re-configuring them, went the same way as my stone and iron plan due to budget sensibility. We needed a Plan C.

Wood bleach solution

I love browsing hardware stores and seeking out new DIY products. A visit to Leroy Merlin’s paint department had me discover something called Decolourant.  This Ebinistes product (I love their range) claimed it would bleach wood. You can read about it here

With my potential plan C purchased I began testing it on the underside of the stairs and was delighted to see it did what it said on the tin.

A quick warning here – if you use this product, ventilate the area well and wear a gas mask.  I didn’t and we nearly had to call the ambulance.  Anyway, we learnt our lesson and now approach using this stuff in a new and safer way.

Husband quickly came on board with the idea and the stripping and sanding began in preparation.  However, we still had the problem of very heavy horizontal heavy timbers up the side and around the top plus the ugly newel posts.

The thought of pulling them apart and adding a new look with spindles and perhaps nicer newel posts had me reeling.

We decided instead to remove two of the three horizontals and take it from there. If after the rest of the project was completed we still hated them, we would removal all of them and add new spindles or some other safety element up the sides.

The project scope

We decided to bleach the handrail and stair treads. Every other element would be painted in a light antique white eggshell.

It was also decided at this stage not to refit the cupboard under the stairs and leave it open. This meant that every surface had to be pre-prepared ready for a full reveal underneath.

Prepping the surfaces

First – remove the ugly horizontal balusters.

Second – fill all major the holes and damage plus the large holes left behind from removing the balusters.

Next – sand all surfaces top and bottom of the stairs and underneath as they were now revealed.  This job took ages! We allowed a couple of days but in reality it was double this.

The bleach will not work well if old shellac/varnish is not removed evenly.

Et voila – a clean raw set of stairs.

The bleaching process

As mentioned above, the bleaching solution is brilliant but it is highly toxic.  After a day on hands and knees applying with a brush I began to feel sick, could not get my breath and my heart began racing.  Decision time – Google the problem or call an ambulance?  Google confirmed the problem and with a lot of fresh air and coughing, I began to feel better. However it did take a few days to get all the nasty gases out of my system.  IDIOT!

I found using a natural bristle brush the easiest way to work in the bleach. It takes a while to perform its full magic (overnight) and to see the full effect. We applied two coats to most surfaces not being painted although there were two or three areas that had some additional touch up.

The end result of the bleaching was that the “wear and tear” was still visible and I was thrilled that their “antique” look was not totally lost.

Finishing to exposed wood elements

We were introduced to a wonderful wood floor finish in the early days of renovation here and it has been used on over 300 square metres of floors throughout the house and guest annex.  It is not cheap! Something magic happens when it reacts with the wood? You can read out it here

It was explained to me (in French) and I got the gist of the natural oil and cellulose reacting to create a new structure. Better than it forming a strong durable finish, it is also matt, natural, odor free, easy to apply with a brush or foam roller and relatively quick drying/setting. What’s more – brushes and rollers wash out in soap and water!

As most of our original floors were in pretty bad condition, it has not only protected the new finishes we have created but strengthened the wood in the process.

We used this product for both the stair treads and hand rail.

It was decided to oil the wood before painting the other areas for easier clean up and masking. Once the wood is sanded and bleached, it needs protection quickly.  Working on them and general everyday use meant that they were becoming marked and damaged without this protection.

Painting the remainder

The rest of the finishing was relatively easy if a bit fiddly in parts.  We used a slight contrast colour for the first riser (at front and underneath) to match our floor tiles.  In our case this was Autentico Almond Eggshell, the same colour we had chosen for our door trims.

The eggshell paint is lovely to use and gives an old worldly look – not too matt or glossy.  A few tips:

• eggshell paint does not like being overworked. You must not keep working over an area that is painted or you will get drag marks and clumping
• eggshell paint needs some weeks to fully harden and then is almost indestructible. Take care not to knock or kick the risers and balusters until totally hardened.
• Tape up your wood areas well – although any mistakes or brush overs on your oil finished wood will wipe clean fairly easily.
• A job this size will take some time to complete.  Keep your brush in a zip lock bag in between usages to save on washing out.

I use Autentico paints for furniture and fine finishes although there are many other brands jsut as good.  However, if like me you like to order it online and love the “current” colours, you can order it here

Time and costs

This project was completed over the winter months and took some weeks to complete.  However, all in all it was less invasive than having the old stairs removed and new ones installed and of course there was the cost comparison. No comparison really.

Cost of materials:

One bottle of Ebinistes Decolourant (wood bleach) €24.90

One 5 litre can of Blanchon Huile Environnement (natural floor/wood oil) €112.00

One 1 litre tin of Autentico Corfu White Eggshell paint €27.95

Other materials (sandpaper, painters tape and leftover Autentico Almond Eggshell paint) were part of our workshop stock.

Total cost of stairs less than €150.00 not including our time, which of course is FREE.

In my mind many thousands of euros were saved by taking on this Plan C and the end result well worth the effort.  However, I will let you be the judge!

Now on to the annex stairs – a new plan for these ones though.  Stay tuned!

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In my mind was a rustic yet natural finish of sandstone or terracotta.

At over 75 square metres, the cost of of the job with a tile was adding up. My basic choice began at €1500 for tiles plus glue, grout and sealant. The hand cut sandstone look I adored was €120 PER SQUARE METRE!!!!

Budget, as usual was a driver in the decision. As chief procurer of all “decorative” things, it came down to me on both look and costs.

The decision

The decision was made to try painted concrete. As usual with this house project, naivety and enthusiasm along with budget relieving ideas, I had no experience or real knowledge of how to do this so that it was both beautiful and low maintenance.

However, a quick look at Leroy Merlin’s website and learning about cost per square metre, I came up with a cost of €200-300 for all materials needed. In other words, the whole project could be completed for the price of two and a half square metres of my preferred sandstone slabs. Decision made!

The Look

I decided I wanted to try and mimic my much loved stone slabs and also add some featured elements that would look like Persian carpets. Hopefully it would not be too obvious as being only painted concrete.

However, it needed to be tested. Husband was fully on board with the idea although telling him it would be similar paint finish to a Formula One pit garage might also have helped.

Perfecting the idea – the painted concrete pantry test

Firstly, I lugged the four tins of concrete paint down into some old chicken coops we were about to demolish.  Their old concrete floors would be a great place to try out my skill. We bought these first tins at Leroy Merlin.  Here is a link to give you an idea of the colours and prices available. Leroy Merlin range of paints

The Ripolin brand is more expensive than the Luxens but seems to be a better quality.

Armed with various rollers, brushes, rags and sponges, some stencils and rolls of masking tape, I set up the laboratory of concrete painting.

My early attempts eventually had promise but the look on husband’s face showed he needed some more convincing. It may have been the way I was presenting it or the environment I had chosen among the old tangled chicken wire and overgrown brambles we had to climb through to view my test patches.

The pantry was an area that had been used to store fruit and veges over the winter by the previous owners. It also became a temporary tools storage/workshop during the massive kitchen project adjacent.

It was a very rough diamond to start with as you can see in the photos but it had a concrete floor and that was what inspired me to get on and renovate the area. Adjacent to the newly finished kitchen/dining and living area, the timing was perfect.

The Process

Obviously a tidy up was to come first.

We decided that the old freezer left behind by previous owners and move it around as needed.  It was full of our supplies and getting it out was just too hard for a husband and his mildly strong wife.

Then after a quick rendering of the walls, acid cleaning the floors to remove centuries of grease and grime, we had a blank canvas with which to work. Painted concrete tile floor – here we come.

What you need – materials

• a few tiles/stones or printouts of look you want to achieve.  (this helps you emulate the colours). I had bit of old limestone and a few cheap tiles I picked up out of a remnant bin.
• Cement acid wash/de-greaser – we used hydrochloric which we mixed to 5% with water.
• Base colour high intensity traffic concrete paint. Check tin for square metre coverage to judge quantity. Exterior paint is higher wearing but more expensive.  It would depend on the wear area you are painting.
• At least two highlight colours of concrete paint to create your tile look. Only small tins needed as you will not need as much as the base coat.
• If wanting to create more colour options but not the expense of whole tins, buy paint tint tubes – much cheaper and gives you plenty of options to mix your own contrasts.
• A tin of top coat if you wish to seal it – optional and again based upon intensity of traffic to area. The hardware stores do recommend it.
• Masking tape for “grout” areas.  Obviously the thinner the tape the more realistic the grout.  Unfortunately 14mm is the thinnest I can find here in France – I would love thinner and trying to cut the rolls down proved a disaster for us.

Tip:  If your masking tape tears as you unroll it, microwave it for 20 seconds. 

• Large roller and edge brush for the base coat.
• Sea sponges – different textures and densities produce differing patterns.
• Touch up thin brush for any grout touch ups later
• Cardboard or sturdy stencil of your tile shape
• Stencils and contrast colours for any more decorative elements such as a mat or carpet or decorative edging.
• Rags and paper towel to smudge with.
• Rubber gloves as the sponging is a messy business.

Step one: The base coat 

After all surfaces were spic and span, the first coat of Pierre (stone) coloured concrete paint was applied using a medium density roller and a smaller foam roller into the corners.  

The base colour/coat needs to dry for 24 hours.

Our concrete stains and wear shone through so we decided on two coats of the base colour.

Step Two – The masking tape to create your tiles

The laying down of the masking tape is important as it forms your tiles once painted over and a removed.

Ruling lines and measuring would have taken me ages, so I made a cardboard template of the size of “tile” I wanted. I decided on a 20cm x 40cm size.

I began my first tile at the furthest corner (as if a cut tile). This gave me a starting point to work backwards from.

Whatever your pattern, I suggest you start at the furthest end and work towards your entrance/exit area.

With a bit of contrasting coloured chalk and using my cardboard template, I laid down long diagonal strips (horizontal) directly along the edge of the template. Then I ruled lines for where each tile would finish (vertical).

Long lines of masking tape soon filled half the room and I went back to then divide each portion into its individual tiles.  You can see this in the photo below.

Laying down the painters/masking tape to form your tiles.

This photo shows the first areas of “tile” masked up and the contrasting edging I decided to do as the walls were far from straight.

I also had a play with masking up other shapes and feature areas as a rehearsal for the terrace. Photos below.

Working on the diagonal was much easier for me than trying to get straight lines across the room which would be more obvious if slightly our of alignment.

I also decided to make a light coloured border around the room to disguise the crooked old stone walls. By running this as a straight line and simply leaving the base coat exposed, it tricked the eye into seeing only straight lines.

Creating the tiles – trompe l’oeil

Now came the fun part – creating the tiles!

I decided I wanted a stone/travertine look after experimenting with terracotta tile, marble and other possible effects. My limited artistic ability and the time element involved all came together to help make this decision

After much trial and error in the old chook pen, I found using a sea sponge was the best and easiest way.

I used four different colours of concrete paint; light grey, taupe, cream and a pale yellow.  I dolloped a quantity of each colour paint on old ice-cream container lids.  Any plastic surface with a lip would do.

Then dipping the sponge in a colour, I started to dab it around. Alternating colours with each dob as I worked tile by tile around the room. I wanted to make sure that some “tiles would be darker/lighter than others to give a more natural look of “real stone” tiles. Different pressures of dabs and smudges will obviously create different texture looks.

Stand back and review your work regularly!

A good trick is to keep standing up and stepping back to see how your tiles are evolving. If too dark or too patchy simply layer on some more colour or smudge it more as you go.

REMEMBER: make sure you build up your paint up and over the masking tape or you will not get a definitive line of “grout” when you reveal your finished area.

Allow to dry 24 hours.  Then gently peel away all your masking tape to reveal your masterpiece.

Do any “grout” touch up with your base colour as needed with a fine brush.

Stencil features

I also played with stencils to create a door mat effect at the door using stronger colours of red, white, ochre and navy blue. At one stage I had thought I would do an brick style floor and played with other shapes under the soon to be installed wine racks.

At this point I learnt a lot about concrete paint and stencils. It is sticky stuff that forms a skin very quickly. The paint ruined my stencils and the concrete paint even in small quantities on my stencil sponge had a habit of bleeding. It was at this point that I knew a different method was going to be needed if I was not going to blow the budget buying the many very expensive concrete/floor stencils available.

I have compiled a large reference library of these stencils on my Pinterest page since this project and have a few ideas of where I can attack next, especially with smoother surfaces.  I have a wood floor upstairs that is crying out for some magic.  Stay tuned.  Here are some of my saved inspirations. Painted carpets Pinterest

The finished pantry

We added a nonslip top coat especially for painted concrete to the finished area. Although it said matt finish on the tin, it proved glossier than I would have liked.  However, I hardly notice this anymore.

Note the fun I had painting the old freezer with home-made blackboard paint for frozen food stock control. I always forget what’s in the freezer. This has helped enormously.

What goes in is chalked on and the family is under threat of death if they don’t wipe off what they have removed! It makes shopping a breeze and makes me feel organized – a bonus for anyone in renovation disarray.

Now for the terrace project…

So much learnt, it was time to take on the real painted concrete project that the pantry was a test for.  You can see the process and results here…Painted concrete Part 2 terrace

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We purchased this 200 year old stone “maison de maitre”, previously an Armagnac producing property, with the knowledge it was truly a major project.

She was very tired and needing a lot of love, care and upgrading but her full potential was immediately evident to us. However, the scale of the works to be undertake would test our DIY learning curve.

Our rose-coloured glasses were hard to share with friends and family. Their unconscious flinches when shown the property or photos were something we learnt to ignore.

Under her blanket of grey concrete render, early to mid 20th century (moldy) wallpapers and years of being unoccupied, she was a Cinderella waiting to dress up for the ball.

On these pages we will share much of what we learned about searching for and purchasing a house in France, the projects undertaken and where we found the best renovation materials bargains.

Our property is also covered in fruit trees, berry bushes and has a very large potager (vegetable garden). We have had great fun creating recipes for food and drinks from our seasonal produce and will share our recipe success stories with you.

Managing our DIY priorities – the list was long

However, the Notaire who managed the sale process did not possess our level of enthusiasm. This was very evident as he read off the various mandatory reports that French Law requires. His tone was one of “not too late to change your mind”.

We apparently had work orders on the electrics, plumbing and the septic system, pages of warnings about lead paint and asbestos and essential things like boilers etc were all over 25 years old.

She “listed a bit to port” but we were not deterred.  She had thick stone walls, a good roof, various ponds and a large lake. Along with a couple of hectares of gardens, a huge stone barn and south facing outlook, we loved her, wanted her and everything else we would work out as we went along.

“In order to succeed, we must first believe that we can” 

Furthermore, we were total “newbies” to all DIY and renovation skills needed but definitely not short on enthusiasm or motivation.

My old adage of EQ>IQ is a daily mantra here and has kept us going.

Delivering the dream

The main aim (dream) of this renovation was to undertake most of it with our own hands and minds.

We knew that the little French language skills we possessed might create some procurement challenges – and it has. However, we now have oodles of tips to share.

Together Husband and I are now well on our way to living the dream in France and loving it.

Finally, our lovely old house is starting to emerge and much to the surprise of many, exceeding expectations. However, there is still much to do.

DIY tips, ideas and tutorials

We look forward to sharing our know-how and acquired skills. In addition we will include living in France tips, our projects and products, recipes and other fun stuff.

We hope that as a result of the dream we are following, we might inspire someone else to take on similar challenges. Perhaps we could inspire you to a move away from your comfort zone and a whole new life!

Have a great day, breathe and don’t forget to have a dream!

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